SOS Democracy: how this came to be

by phil on May 14, 2013

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Earlier this year, I was emailed by a Malian woman named Coumba. She was trying to get in contact with Bruce Whitehouse about a post he had written, in which I was quoted. His post linked to my site and she ended up writing to me thinking that I had authored Bruce’s larger post. I gave her Bruce’s email, but as I also found her points interesting, we began a conversation (you can see her original email in the comments section of the post from Bruce).

After talking over email, we decided to meet for lunch. Coumba invited me to eat with her and her dad at her family’s house, which was just around the corner from me in Badalabougou. Over a delicious tigadigana, we talked about many things but kept returning to the topic of Mali’s political crisis. Coumba remarked that she had never thought about politics in Mali until the coup. She explained that she voted in past elections, but was otherwise apathetic. Now she found herself worried about her country’s future and unsure of what could be done about it.

Towards the end of our rendez-vous, Coumba proposed forming an association that would work to engage people on the topics of democracy and governance while also pressuring the Malian political class and the Malian government to move towards greater transparence and more open communication with citizens. It sounded like an excellent idea to me and I told her I would assist in any way possible.

The following week we scheduled the group’s first meeting. Coumba and I each invited 5 friends who we thought would be interested in the project. It was clear from the beginning that the group had great ideas and much enthusiasm. Many projects start this way and fail soon after, or they never actually get off the ground. But things started happening. We formalized membership, submitted paperwork to the government, organized internal elections, and drafted a plan of action. We then started working with Yeredon (you can read about my experience at Yeredon here) on a sketch comedy. Recently, we held our first “day of action and awareness” in a Bamako neighborhood. Yeredon performed the finished sketch and the group had a town style meeting with members of the Fadjiguila community (I was in the States when this took place, but from all accounts it was very well received).

The plan is to turn SOS Democracy into a nationwide campaign. But we have no funding. So far, all events and activities have been covered with money pooled by the members of the group themselves. Today, we have launched a crowdfunding campaign that will help provide the means to meet our objectives.

Transforming Mali’s political culture will not be easy, but the country’s current situation provides a unique opportunity to take a step towards better governance. Mali cannot afford another government that is not representative of its people. Consider supporting SOS Démocratie in their efforts to help Mali build a credible democracy.

So, yes, help us make this happen. Throw in some money, spread the word, spam your facebook etc.

Fundraising page

SOS Democracy homepage

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Losing my tubabu pass

by phil on May 2, 2013

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As the words were coming out, I knew I was making a mistake. I knew because I had made the same mistake before, in front of the same friend whose eyes were now widening. “Hεrε sira?” (did you pass the night in peace?).

Under most circumstances, this is an acceptable question, polite even. What’s not so polite is asking this of a woman 40 years your senior. As a relatively young guy, I’m not supposed to ask older folks if they passed the night in peace, because how they passed the night is not my business.

A few days prior to this, I had greeted an old man with “Kow ka ɲi?” (everything good?). While I should have said “good afternoon” or asked of his family, I more or less said “hey man, everything cool?” to a guy that was probably 78-years-old.

I can get away with most of these blunders. As an outsider, I have a pass that grants me a certain amount of immunity. It’s what allows me to show up underdressed at a Bamako wedding, sit in the women’s tent, and generally act like an idiot.

Acting a fool in Accra, circa 2010.

But Time can erode this immunity. I now find myself getting reprimanded by friends who have watched me make mistakes one too many times. When I was last in Cote d’Ivoire, for example, I mistakenly gave a gift directly to the person I wanted to give it to. What? Yeah, it’s confusing. I wanted to give a gift – a new teapot – to Faty’s dad. So, I gave it to him. Faty put her head in her hands as I did so.

Gift giving is a bit unconventional in Cote d’Ivoire, or at least the parts of Cote d’Ivoire that are familiar to me. You give the gift to the person that introduced you to the person you are actually trying to give the gift to. In this case, that would be Faty. I give the gift to Faty, she gives it to her dad, and then later her dad thanks Faty for introducing me to him, and that’s how he thanks me for the gift. It was a funny moment, the first time this happened, when Faty’s dad thanked Faty for my gift in front of me.

Faty decided that I’m no longer allowed to make this mistake. She’s not the only one that has recently forbid me from botching practices that should be routine by now. While I am a white American from a Cleveland, Ohio suburb — and that’s not changing anytime soon — I have been spending most of my time in Mali and Cote d’Ivoire over the past several years.

I do have some new habits from this extended sejour (new living situation?). I am a prolific greeter. I am an expert when it comes time to demande la route. And I invite just about anyone to eat with me quand je suis à table. There are many other practices that I haven’t adopted, some that I probably never will. But even if I did, I would remain an outsider.

It’s a strange thing when you become comfortable in a once unfamiliar environment, but at the same time you know that you’re not really IN it. There’s no integration, but you arrive at something that approximates it in certain ways. People ask me “where do you live? what are you doing?” and I don’t have a straightforward answer to either question. But I’m somehow getting used to having my feet in two places at once, and I’m actually quite enjoying it. I’m always learning something, often by making a fool of myself, and life never gets too predictable.

I’m in the states now, visiting family and friends before I head back to Bamako on the 16th. New posts coming up: continuing the Red Roofs of Yop City saga and launching a fundraiser for a civil advocacy project I’ve been involved with in Bamako.

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Dancing on the Roof of Nafaji

by phil April 17, 2013 Mali

After Bankoni and behind Djelibougou, is a neighborhood that straddles the sprawling tentacles of Bamako and the villages that lie just beyond the hills. I didn’t have any reason to go to Nafaji until Sophie put me in contact with a dancer at Yeredon, a community based dance center. I made my first visit to [...]

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Some recent photos from Mali

by phil April 3, 2013 Mali

I recently wrote a post on How to Draw Camels about what I’ve been up to in Bamako over the past month. You can check it out here. I haven’t had time to write the final chapter in my Yopougon Toits Rouges saga (see part 1 and part 2), so in lieu of another 1,000+ [...]

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Red Roofs of Yop City Part II: la Petite Réconciliation

by phil March 21, 2013 Cote D'Ivoire

The following is part 2 of a piece on Toits Rouges, a neighborhood in the Yopougon quartier of Abidjan. I have spent a lot of time in this neighborhood over the past several years. I hope this offers an accurate picture of that place. Click here to read part 1. Both doors to Mr. Konate’s [...]

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What some travelers to West Africa are missing

by phil March 5, 2013 W. Africa

lounging with a Tuareg family from Timbuktu in Bobo-Dioulasso I have not yet posted the sequel to the piece on toits rouges. I was traveling to Burkina Faso, attending the FESPACO film festival and spending a few days in Bobo. I will finish that post up in the next few days, but right now I [...]

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