October 2010

Journey to Timbuktu Part 1: a Breakdown, an Overloaded Pinasse, Flying Urine, and a Late Night Foot Job

by phil October 27, 2010 Mali
Pinasse on the Niger River

2AM on the BT N Segou. A sheet of urine sails over my head. This is the third time tonight. Like a letter dropped into a post box, the flying saucer of piss fits through the two foot opening between the railing and the roof of the boat’s upper deck, landing in the water below. [...]

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Interview with an Owner of the Sleeping Camel Hostel in Bamako

by phil October 25, 2010 Mali
sleeping camel hostel bamako Mali

Almost a month into my stay in Mali and I have not couchsurfed a single night. This is mostly because I’m staying at the incredibly well-run Sleeping Camel Hostel for $8 a night and it has been too hard to leave. It is easy to recognize the gold standard in hostels: interesting and diverse guests, [...]

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To Timbuktu and Back: A Brief Recap

by phil October 22, 2010 Mali
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These items will be expanded in upcoming posts – Overland Bamako to Mopti – Mopti to village of Niafunke in overloaded-somehow-still-seaworthy pinasse on Niger River – Hanging out in Niafunke, meeting the rest of Ali Farka Toure’s family, contracting amoebic dysentery – Timbuktu.. with amoebic dysentery – Timbuktu to Sevare overland.. with amoebic dysentery (never [...]

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Les Enfants de Bamako

by phil October 20, 2010 Mali
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This post is automated. I scheduled a few before I left Bamako. While you read this I may be looking at the world’s largest mud mosque. More likely, I am sweating it out in a bush taxi, resting my feet on a goat, listening to Sekouba Traore. The paperwork for my numerous planned adoptions will [...]

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The Only Reason You Need to Travel to Mali

by phil October 15, 2010 Mali
inside a sotrama in mali

When two Malians meet for the first time, they greet and introduce themselves. Then they insult each other. In this way, Mali has avoided Civil War for centuries. The insults are based on family names and they are mostly hilarious. When a Keita meets a Coulibaly, the conversation might go something like this: Keita (family [...]

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Spending an Afternoon with Vieux Farka Toure in Bamako

by phil October 11, 2010 Mali
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In Africa you rarely know how and when things will happen. You may plan to take a trip, but the boat is not running. Maybe it sunk. Maybe it’s broken. You may think you are going to leave by 10AM, but the car is not filled with passengers. Maybe it’s full, but now it won’t [...]

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