When I tell Ghanaians I am staying in the Newtown neighborhood of Accra, I receive one of two reactions: elation, because they live in Newtown themselves, or shock, because Newtown and nearby Nima are known for thuggery. It turns out that some years ago, Newtown was a...
Month: July 2010
Games of Ghana and Some Hiplife for Your Listening Pleasure
The Newtown neighborhood of Accra is loud. Almost all the time. “Allahhhh Huuuu Akbarrrrrrrr” is every morning from 4-530AM (some mosques start late I guess). This is my alarm clock or my second lullaby, depending on when I plan on getting up. My first lullaby, which...
Leg Infection Part II (?) and Nana Boroo’s birthday
Five years ago, outside of a game reserve in northern Benin, I got a cut on my shin that became badly infected. From knee to foot, my leg was like a piece of rotting fruit. I became immobile, bearded, and completely pathetic. After a regimen of IVs, oral antibiotics,...
Music in Accra: Listening and Creating
Yas1 by lionsinthetiles Yas2 by lionsinthetiles 2 versions of original work made in Accra. Had to compress a lot because internet in Ghana is not cooperating. Go figure. Peace fm by lionsinthetiles To get a sense for what's playing on the radio in Accra, this is a...
Bits and Pieces: Drawing Camels in Accra
Spend some time around me and you will probably see me draw a camel. Spend some more time with me and you will probably see me try to get other people to draw camels. You also might have heard me mention my website idea: kidsdrawcamels.com. I regularly coerced my...
Visiting Ms. Piggy in Accra
After spending an hour and a half in two different cramped and dilapidated minibuses, I am looking for a shared taxi to my final destination: Beach Road. My first couchsurfing experience has led me to the western-most neighborhoods of Accra, Ghana. Dansuman, Shiabu,...
Making Friends in Accra
The weather in Accra has been gorgeous. Did not think I would be saying that. It has been low-mid 80's, moderate humidity, and there is a constant light breeze. The nights are perfect. It is the rainy season, but it has only rained twice since I've been here and the...
Eating Ghanaian Food: Kenkey With Fish
Kenkey is a maize mixture that has been soaked in water and fermented. It is served with pepe (a hot sauce) and some mini-tilapias. Kenkey is heavy and dense. It tastes like exceptionally sour sourdough bread. I'm not crazy about it (give me fufu or banku any day),...
Uruguay Beats Ghana: The Aftermath
Well, what can be said about the game? Cheering on a sports team is one of the sillier emotional investments we can make. It is, however, one of the few things that can inspire collective euphoria. Ghana would have absolutely erupted with a win. In fact, Ghana did...
Accra is Electric
A quick update: Had a reversal of fortune last night. Consequence of oversold virgin atlantic flight, got bumped to premium economy. Bottomless wine and brandy for 5 hours. Arrive too late/too early to call couchsurfing host so sprung for a hotel. Got half off the...
Scoot West Africa
Want to travel with me in West Africa? A friend and I run scooter trips in the region. scootwestafrica.com.
Postcards from Timbuktu
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Things I write about
The Great Jakarta Tour of Far West Africa Part 1: Bamako to Dakar
That time I got married in Mali
Bamako to Abidjan by bus: a chance to get intimate with the hot season
You Bring the Yam, I’ll Bring the Fire
Drawing Camels with 100 Different People in Bamako in 24 Hours
A photo essay: Bamako taxi interiors
A Cocktail Shaker and 10 meters of Fabric in Adjame Market
My sheep, sail boats on the Niger, dance contests and other photos from Mali