Hey there. It’s been nine months since I last posted here. It feels like years have gone by, though.
Given recent events, pandemic, newborn, toddler-now-preschooler, collapsed lung, I am just happy I remembered to renew the domain name.
When I last wrote, we were still weeks away from the coup in Bamako. I suppose we could start there, but let’s not. I would be a bit more motivated to write about that turn of events if the coup had provided the much hoped-for jolt of good governance and reform that Mali desperately needed. There was the brief post-coup honeymoon and now we are back where we started. Or worse. At least the power cuts have been manageable through the first third of the hot season. Famous last words.
The hot season is certainly here. That means mangoes and avocados, lots of pool time, plenty of vitamin D and excessive exposure to UV rays. It also hopefully means fewer cases of COVID, but that does not seem to be panning out at the moment. I am not in the “heat kills covid” camp, but I do think the hot season helps. In Bamako, many people sleep outdoors, cook outdoors — do everything outdoors — at this time of year. They have started administering the AstraZeneca vaccine, but the who and when is still unclear (scratch that, see the update at the bottom).
Easter 2020 from hot season camel commune lockdown
A hot season ago, we were in our sleeping camel lockdown commune. Aside from semi-regular panic attacks and a narrowly averted bankruptcy, it was a fun time. Much of our anxiety was tied to Bintou’s pregnancy. We were incredibly relieved and remain deeply grateful that she gave birth to a healthy baby in September.
As was the case with baby Andre, Awa Elizabeth is known by many names. Liza (pronounced leeza), leela, eliza, and most often Mama Eliza. Mama Eliza is now a hair over 7-months-old. She is crawling and alarmingly, pulling herself up on just about anything. We had a few months of parenting cruise control between colic and mobility. But now it’s game on. At least we have a four-year-old to help look after things.
Speaking of Andre, he is considered a preschooler now. I wish I could hit pause on this age. Two and three were a lot of fun, but he was still a kind of uncontrollable force. Now it is this great combination of semi-obedience, personality and imagination. Awa is adorable and she does all of the heart-melty things, but I am really looking forward to having a conversation with her. I know, I know. Foolish words when kids age at light speed.
I mentioned a collapsed lung earlier. It seems I am also aging at light speed. That, and I did something stupid. At least, everyone has told me it was stupid. I really thought I had my sea legs back, but all it took was one awkward fall. On a skateboard. It was a bit nerve wracking to be hospitalized for three days with a collapsed lung during a pandemic caused by a disease that often involves respiratory distress, but thankfully I did not require any surgical intervention and I seemingly did not contract covid. My lung uncollapsed on its own and I went home once more counting my blessings having dodged another large menacing object hurled by 2020-21.
Next year is going to be great, right? I suppose there is still hope for 2021.
What else is going on?
Scoot West Africa is making a comeback. Matt left for Mauritania in March. Shortly after arriving in Nouakchott, he bought a used jakarta and headed for the desert, stopping in oases along the way. Matt and Maurice (so-named after an instagram poll) even made it onto the Iron Ore Train.
Now in the Casamance, Senegal’s southern province and one of our favorite places on the planet, Matt is really working up some jealousy on my end.
The good news is that I may be able to get over to that side to join Matt for a trip in early May. Beyond that, we have high hopes for the fall. We will be pushing our original itineraries as well as a Senegal-only jaunt through the Sine-Saloum and a completely new trip to Mauritania. Interested in riding a scooter with us? Check out our instagram, website and email list.
In other news, Postcards from Timbuktu continues to chug along. The project was buoyed last year by a Washington Post article and an article in the German newspaper Süddeutsche Zeitung. Logistics have always been a struggle for us, but they have been especially challenging with the high volume of orders, along with post-coup Malian bureaucracy, and COVID decimating postal services everywhere. That said, most customers have been very patient and accommodating. We are fortunate to have a loyal following of people that are more or less the opposite of your average online shopper.
Other than that? We are just trying to keep the hotel/restaurant up and running. Business has certainly been better this year. Ramadan is always a difficult time — especially during the hot season — but we are doing what we can to support our staff. A few Sundays ago we held a fundraiser with a couple of local associations in order to try and get some money in the hands of people who really need it during this taxing month.
And lastly, I’ve been jabbed with the AstraZeneca vaccine. So far, so good. When I originally started writing this post, they had not made a formal announcement about who could get vaccinated when. In the meantime, they have opened it up to everyone. Many Malians are skeptical of vaccination in general. It is going to be a heavy lift to get people to line up for the vaccine that has been put on pause throughout Europe, in Ramadan no less. While I was conflicted over getting the vaccine here — less because of safety and more because I did not want to take a jab away from a Malian who wanted it — I feel better about it now. It is very unlikely that they will be able to administer all of the vaccines on hand before they expire. I hope that changes, but it doesn’t look good at the moment.
Wishing you good health, a peaceful Ramadan and hopefully some beautiful spring weather depending on your latitude.
Great to hear your news. Your new addition is adorable, and could pass for Andre’s twin. Peru has mangoes and avocados, too, my favorites! But alas, no vaccines. I’m moving to Spain, so a visit to your continent may be more likely. Take good care!
Cheers Kerry. Look forward to you being closer to us and visiting one day!!!
Wow, what a year. I will potentially spend a few days in Bamako in early July. Hope the next year is better than the last.
Hey Lonni that would be great. Keep us posted.
It is great to hear about your year. The challenges you face are not even remotely on our radar in North America. I hope things settle down a bit and that those vaccines are all used up in record time!
I had a collapsed lung when I was 17. It happened when I was sitting on the couch reading so your skateboard story is MUCH more impressive. I was sure I was having a heart attack, but we all know 17 year old girls don’t have heart attacks so I just went to bed without telling anyone. I lived through a very uncomfortable night and eventually recovered without being hospitalized. Quite a challenge for you with your young family. Wishing excellent health for the year ahead!
What an incredible life! Never a dull moment! I once had a collapsed lung and it was awful so I’m happy to hear it corrected itself! Congrats on your new addition and on getting vaccinated. I find it amazing that you would get it quicker there than some of us in the States. Stay cool and healthy!